Tips page contents:
- Ace Bookshelves Project
- Lawn & Garden Tips for Arkansas
Ace Bookshelves Project
Materials:
Approx. 22' hardwood cleat material 7/8" x 2-1/8".
Fastening is done with white or yellow wood glue, polyurethane glue and (optional) brad nails from a pneumatic brad nailer.
| Qty. |
Item |
Dimensions |
Material |
| 2 |
Front edges |
1-3/8" x 2" x 24" |
Cherry |
| 1 |
Front edge |
1-3/8" x 2" x 78" |
Cherry |
| 1 |
Front edge |
1-3/8" x 2" x 70" |
Cherry |
| 1 |
Front edge |
1-3/8" x 2" x 61" |
Cherry |
| 1 |
Front edge |
1-3/8" x 2" x 55" |
Cherry |
| 2 |
Shelf skins |
1/4" x 9-1/2" x 55-5/8" |
Cherry ply |
| 2 |
Shelf skins |
1/4" x 9-1/2" x 70-5/8" |
Cherry ply |
| 2 |
Shelf skins |
1/4" x 9-1/2" x 78-5/8" |
Cherry ply |
| 2 |
Shelf skins |
1/4" x 9-1/2" x 61-5/8" |
Cherry ply |
| 4 |
Shelf skins |
1/4" x 9-1/2" x 24-5/8" |
Cherry ply |
| 12 |
End bldups |
7/8" x 2-1/2" x 9-1/8" |
Pine |
| 30 |
Bldups |
7/8" x 1-1/2" x 7-5/8" |
Pine |
Process:
1. Study the Drawings and Materials List then familiarize yourself with the construction steps that follow.
2. Gather building materials. See above under "Materials".
3. Before construction, determine if you want to build the shelves to the lengths given, or make them longer or shorter. Adjust the materials list accordingly.
4. Begin construction by cutting materials to the sizes given in the Materials List. Allow an extra inch or so for trimming the assembled panels to final length.
5. Cut a 1/2" x 1/4" rabbet on two long edges of the solid cherry front edge parts. See cross section drawing of shelf.
6. Glue the long laminate strips to one long edge of one plywood piece per panel subassembly (see panel cross-section diagram). The laminate must be short enough in length to fit between the end pine build-up pieces that will be glued later.
7. Assemble each panel. First glue and fasten and/or clamp one piece of cherry plywood to the appropriate length front edge piece at the rabbet. Turn the work over and proceed with gluing the longer pine build up parts to the ends and shorter one about every 12" to 14". Use polyurethane glue for cross grain gluing. Next glue the second 1/4" cherry plywood "skin" over the build up ribs fixing with glue and brads as before. Clamp ends and at rabbet joint to ensure a sound glue joint.
8. Repeat this procedure for each panel subassembly.
9. Now carefully mark each panel subassembly indicating its position for final assembly when complete. Mark the up position (the laminate strip must always be on the top side), and right and left ends. Careful marking will ensure the end miters are cut correctly.
10. Now rout a 1/4" radius on the appropriate edge of the solid cherry front piece.
11. Next cut the chamfer on the long edge of each solid cherry front edge using a table saw. The cut should blend with the routed radius in the previous step. Refer to cross section drawing.
12. Using a sander or scraper, flush up the joint where the plywood is joined to the solid cherry front edge being careful not to sand or scrape through the plywood veneer.
13. Cut the miters on the ends of each panel subassembly using a sliding compound miter saw, table saw or radial arm saw.
14. For ends to be glued together cut biscuit slots for biscuit joining the miter joints.
15. Assemble the miter joints using glue and clamps (see photo for clamping suggestion).
16. After the glue has cured, "veneer" the remaining mitered ends using cherry veneer. You can cut your own veneer by slicing off 1/16" thick pieces from left over solid cherry stock. Use contact cement to glue veneer. After gluing, trim veneer overhang until flush with adjoining surface.
17. Sand completed project using progressive sandpaper grits up to 150 or 180 grit.
18. Apply two or three coats of clear finish sanding lightly sanding between coats with fine sandpaper.
19. Prepare hardwood strips for attaching shelves to wall. Strips should be a good fit in slot created in back of each shelf. Drill and countersink holes for screws in rear top edge of each shelf placing screws about every 14".
20. Very carefully lay out shelf locations on the wall where they will be hung. Attach hardwood strips, fastening them securely with screws to studs behind plaster or drywall.
21. Sleeve shelf unit over hardwood strips attached to wall and secure shelf units with screws in pre-drilled holes.
Garden Tips
Gardening Calendar
January is not a big gardening month, but there are some tasks which can be accomplished beginning in February.
February marks the beginning of the growing season. We see the first signs of spring blooms in winter jasmine and winter honeysuckle. Early daffodils and crocus are blooming and it is the season to pay attention to weather forecasts. Arkansas is known for its fluctuations. A few warm days in the winter can incite plants into new growth. If you are beginning to see life in your dormant shrubs, especially hydrangeas, be prepared to protect them, should a cold snap occur. Tender new growth is much more sensitive to cold than their dormant counterpart. Covering large plants is difficult. It is much easier to throw some extra mulch or even a cardboard box over a small shrub or perennial, but large bushes and fruit trees pose a real problem. Often we have to hope Mother Nature is kind to us. Sheets, burlap, garden "blankets" called Remay, can give you a few degrees of protection, but can be hard to fasten to the plants. Make sure there is ample moisture in the ground prior to a cold snap.
Bulbs
All spring bulbs should be up and growing now; some are even in bloom. When you see the flower
stalk emerging from the foliage, it’s a great time to fertilize. Use a complete fertilizer such
as 13-13-13 or 20-20-20. Don’t get hung up on bone meal—that is just at planting season.
Your bulbs need nitrogen, phosphorous and potash. If you put the fertilizer out shortly
before blooming, the nutrition will be readily available as soon as blooming is over and
they begin the process of setting blooms for next season. Length of bloom depends a lot
on the weather and the variety, but you can expect several weeks of color from most bulbs.
Daffodils are the easiest to care for and can remain in place for years without division.
Tulips and hyacinths benefit from dead-heading—removing the spent flower after bloom.
Annuals & Perennials
Pansies, violas and other winter color should be bouncing back from any slowdown in winter color.
You have a good two to three months left of color from these plants, so a little care can add to
that. Fertilize, deadhead and clean up any damage. As the days lengthen, we get some warmer days,
they should really be blooming.
Many perennials are emerging from their winter dormancy as well. Summer perennials should not
be making a huge appearance now, but daylilies are greening up, hellebores are really growing
and beginning to bloom, and columbine, poppies and bleeding heart are all making an appearance.
Watch for late cold snaps and throw a little extra mulch on tender plants if warranted. Last
year the daylilies went through several phases of green up/ die back because of fluctuating
weather. Perennials are also appearing at many nurseries and garden centers. Plants which come
in those boxes or plastic sleeves need to be purchased and planted while dormant. You can find
everything from the early perennials to corms of liatris, hostas, and lilies.
Fruit Trees
We often see some early blooms on fruit trees this month, but don’t worry. For those homeowners
with a few trees, hold off until late in the month to begin pruning. All fruit trees, grape
vines and blueberry bushes should have annual pruning this month. There will be a fruit pruning
demonstration February 14 in Clarksville at the UA Fruit Substation. Reservations are required;
call 479-754-2406 for more information. Clean up any debris that remains on the trees or around
them. Starting the season off as clean as possible is always best. This is also the season to
plant new fruit trees and blueberry bushes. Most nurseries carry the best selections now. Be
aware that most fruit crops benefit or need a plant to cross-pollinate with. Also remember,
most tree fruits are not carefree—they do need spray programs and annual pruning.
Roses
Know what type of roses you have before you begin the job of pruning. Hybrid tea roses do need
severe pruning each year in February. These bushes are pruned back to within 8-18 inches of the
ground each year. Choose three to five main stems and prune to an outward facing bud. Be aware
the top bud or sprout will be your rose cane for the season. We want them all to grow outwards,
keeping the center of the rose bush as open as possible. This will ensure better airflow and
sunlight penetration, helping with more flowers and less disease problems. Climbing roses often
need some annual pruning as well, but wait until after they bloom in the spring to prune. Shrub
roses, antiques and ramblers should be pruned in accordance with their growth habit and their
bloom season. If they bloom only in the spring, prune after bloom. You don’t have to be as harsh
in their pruning.
Other plants that benefit from pruning later this month include Althea, Buddleia, summer
blooming spiraea, crape myrtles (if needed), Vitex, and Clethra. These plants all bloom in
the summer on new growth. Don’t prune any spring blooming shrubs, gardeni as or big leaf
hydrangeas. Pruning these plants now will remove your potential blooms.
Lawns
Winter weeds got a quick start this past fall and are plentiful. Try to kill the broadleaf
weeds as early this month as possible. Look for an herbicide containing 2,4-D. A combination
spray containing mecoprop and dicamba will give you good control. Be sure to apply according
to label directions and avoid spraying on a windy day. The goal is to kill these weeds before
they begin blooming. Bloom set is not far away, and if they bloom they quickly set seeds,
causing you more problems next year. The little sticker weed spurweed is up and growing too,
so don’t delay. Later this month you can also apply the pre-emergent herbicide to prevent
summer weeds. Try to find a stand alone product without fertilizer. It is a tad early to be
fertilizing warm season grasses, so weed and feed products really don’t benefit the lawn much
with nitrogen. It is best to begin fertilizing lawns after spring green up.
